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Ladies’ tailoring that competes with the board members
Duluth

Ladies’ tailoring that competes with the board members

LONDON — Kamala Harris’ designer suits from the campaign trail and Democratic convention have now reached the other side of the pond, in the UK and beyond, with brands rapidly expanding their offerings to include women’s tailoring, with particular attention to detail and design.

In Savile Row, the street synonymous with men’s tailoring, there is more and more space for women.

The 203-year-old bespoke tailor Norton & Sons opened its first tailoring service for women this summer in the hope of attracting more female customers.

In the past, the brand has designed special pieces for personalities such as Queen Victoria and worked on tailoring collections for Christopher Kane, Jenny Packham and The Kooples.

Ladies tailoring by Norton & Sons.

Ladies tailoring by Norton & Sons.

Courtesy of Norton & Sons

“This renewed focus on women’s tailoring coincides with wider cultural shifts towards sustainability, individuality and a rejection of fast fashion. As more women rise into leadership roles and seek professional clothing that exudes confidence and style, the demand for high-quality, tailored clothing has increased,” said Hannah Bond, women’s fashion representative at Norton & Sons.

The brand’s fully tailored suits are available from £6,000, while made-to-measure suits start from £2,500.

A few doors down is The Deck, a tailoring shop that specializes exclusively in women and has been driving change as the first B Corp certified business on the street.

The brand has a store at 32 Savile Row, an airy 185 square metre shop featuring hand-embroidered floral, bird and butterfly appliqués made from De Gournay wallpaper.

the deck in Savile Row

The deck in Savile Row.

Courtesy of The Deck

“For a long time, men have been able to enjoy the powerful feeling that comes with a tailored suit, but for some reason women have been forgotten. At The Deck, we offer our customers the opportunity to invest in something that is made entirely to their measurements, with their choice of fabric, lining, buttons and monogram,” said Daisy Knatchbull, founder of The Deck and former Huntsman student.

Search at Net-a-porter Ladies The price of bespoke tailoring has increased by 475 percent in the last three months, while searches for suits have increased by 146 percent in the same period.

The retailer continues to offer more traditional tailoring from manufacturers such as Alexander McQueen and Altuzarra.

“Kamala Harris’ modest tailoring wardrobe will certainly have something to do with the increase in searches and attention that tailoring has received in recent months,” said Libby Page, market director at Net-a-porter.

CAMILLA AND MARC AW24 LOOKBOOK-3

Camilla and Marc autumn 2024.

Courtesy of Camilla and Marc

“Tailoring is a symbol of empowerment for women and this development reflects a growing societal shift where women feel more confident and empowered,” agreed Camilla Freeman-Topper, Creative Director of Camilla and Marc.

The same boom is also taking place in Harrods stores.

“We have seen an increase in women’s bespoke clothing across all areas of their wardrobe. The biggest increases have been for events such as weddings and parties. We have seen a big demand for waistcoats, tailored skirts, jackets and trousers,” said Poppy Lomax, head of superbrands and international designer at the retailer.

For many brands, the figures are available as proof.

At Sunspel, women’s tailoring has increased by 103 percent since the brand introduced blazers and trousers with pressed pleats.

For Fall 2024, Sunspel is launching silhouettes in soft merino fabrics and jersey and is also reintroducing skirts.

“Women’s tailoring is becoming increasingly relevant due to the way it is styled today. The casualisation of women’s tailoring, combined with t-shirts, tops and light knitwear, has made it an effortless look that now also fits into everyday wear,” said Raul Verdicchi, CEO of Sunspel.

Without anything underneath

With the Rampling pants from Nothing Underneath.

Courtesy of With Nothing Underneath

Nothing Underneath, Meghan Markle’s preferred women’s shirt brand, is next expanding into tailored trousers.

The brand has seen sales growth of more than 80 percent this year and 300 percent since 2022.

“Taking inspiration from the boys is not a new concept. But since menswear has always dominated the tailoring scene, customers today are looking for the same impeccable tailoring, but tailored to the female figure,” says Pip Durell, founder and CEO of the brand.

As a nod to men’s shirts, the brand left the shirt buttons on the right side.

Durell cites Carolyn Bessette Kennedy, Jane Brikin and Charlotte Rampling as the brand’s muses. Nothing Underneath’s new tailored trousers, for example, are called The Rampling.

The brand adds more masculine accents to its cuts and has had success with its embroidery service, introduced two years ago.

“Due to increased demand, we now have an embroidery machine in our Belgravia store that can produce same-day monograms,” said Durell.

Photos from the Huishan Zhang Fall 2024 runway, fashion show and collection. Designed by Huishan Zhang at London Fashion Week, February 2024.

Huishan Zhang Autumn 2024

Giovanni Giannoni/WWD

London Fashion Week designer Huishan Zhang has impressively evolved the tailoring category.

Tailoring and separates now account for 30 percent of its business; the former is the brand’s fastest-growing branch.

Zhang’s approach to tailoring is not limited to the details of the lining or the belt loops of the trousers, but also pays attention to the exterior. He offers faux leather suits, satin blazers with embellished tulle, suits, neoprene blazers and tailored jackets with taffeta details.

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