When we started researching this story, we thought we would narrow the list down to about 10 women. We have good contacts in the international watch collecting community – especially Rolex – and so usually have to weed out all willing participants from such stories. However, this did not happen. Our first researcher found no one and returned the assignment. Well-connected (male) Rolex experts scratched their heads and muttered “huh”. We dug further and eventually found only three women with notable vintage Rolex collections.

Gender and watches, an often complex topic.

It’s no secret that the world of vintage watch collecting was largely a gentlemen’s club for decades, but as tastes and styles change—some women wear pretty big watches—more and more women seem to be fascinated by vintage Rolex. But you won’t find them in the front row of live auctions or touting from the rooftops their latest counter-equipped Rolex Submariner, their transitional five-digit GMT-Master with a nipple dial, or an earlier flop like a Rolex Milgauss that’s now worth seven figures. But the number of women collecting Rolex is growing, and these women approach collecting a little differently than their male counterparts.

We ended up speaking to Kate Lacey, senior watch consultant at Rosebery’s London and guild lady at the four-hundred-year-old Worshipful Company of Clockmakers, JJ Owens, a quantitative analyst who now works as a consultant in the luxury segment, and Carol Altieri, chief operations officer at Bob’s Watches, a specialist in pre-owned Rolex watches. All three women bring an expertise that stands out among all collectors, and each offers compelling commentary on Rolex collecting.